Professional Journeys’ Narrative – 7

During December 1969, I was asked to take up survey works in Baluchistan Province of Pakistan. It was estimated to be a year’s job without break. Everyone of my colleagues had flatly refused to take up the project due to one reason or another. The most rigid colleagues declared that they would like to either go on medical leave or simply resign from the service once for all. My rearing and education simply could not understand the justifications for refusing an assignment involving normal professional responsibilities. So I shifted my family over to my home town and started for the westernmost part of Baluchistan. It was below zero temperature. Area was very rarely populated, hills were bald and black. Desert regions were brown and waterless. Some of the vast fields were littered with pebbles for miles together, without any source of water and without any human habitation. Tents’ accommodation was against the degree of chill caused by below zero winds. A driver on duty, carrying official papers and stores for a team, died of cold when his vehicle totally sank into a rain-water-channel, on a rainy day. A team member died of heart attack while ascending a hill during survey work. These two deaths created an atmosphere of extreme discouragement for members of most of the teams. These accidents happened within three days of my arrival in the area when I had not yet met the members of the teams and not yet assumed the responsibilities of assignment. The reason of refusal of my colleagues now started becoming clear to me. For administrative reasons my active functioning started about ten days after the death of second person. Rains washed away tracks of communication. Only 15 to 20 KM could be covered during a day. At every water course we had to repair the track before proceeding further. We all faced the odds, struggled, reinstated every part of our courage and determination and brought the working over to full swing. Every single member of every team, alive or dead, still deserves all appreciation for all times to come.

There was another trouble obstructing our functioning. The area contained routes of smugglers who generally passed through that area in the evening daily. According to local information every member of these smugglers groups was expert in use of arms. When I had been busy on duty with a team, we were suddenly apprehended by a harsh voice from behind the bushes at a distance of about 40 meters. Immediately I could not understand any thing. With the hearing of very first voice a 17 years old local boy of our team abruptly stood in front of me at s distance of two meters. This Baluch boy was in complete Baluchi dress with Turban on head. We did have single courageous body guard but against many expert shooters he was not enough. Baluch boy was exchanging dialogues with the smugglers in Baluchi. During a pause, I was told that the smugglers wanted us out of the area at once failing which they were going to start firing. Baluch boy was highly intelligent, confident and courageous. With a loud voice he told the smugglers, “I belong to such and such tribe and we are not going to leave this working position before completing our work. After this information if you want to start firing, you will be firing at me and my tribe”. Now I understood why the boy had abruptly stood just in front of me. With unflinching courageous declaration of the boy there was a pause. Then a voice came from smugglers “ok. We will start firing in case any one of you tried to move toward us.”

Baluch boys of this particular area are highly cultured and behave like elders because they are reared like that. Parents desire to see them grow like responsible adults and they put in every effort for that. Dress and general behavior of teenagers give every indication that the rearing by their parents has been very successful. I have visited all parts of the country but I am most impressed by the gentlemen of this particular area. I do not have any doubt that in case of similar incident in any other part the country, any teenager would have run away over to some safer place.———– To be continued…..

Source: Part from a book in process.
Copyright: Reserved

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Professional Journeys’ Narrative – 6

People of Tharparker are conventional breeders of Camels, Cows, Sheep and Goats. Quite a number of them posses sizeably large herds. Owners of some herds do not know the actual count of their animals. Every owner of the large herd keeps close eye on his animals and with the team of guarding members moves along with the herd in search of grazing stuff. Bushes locally known as ‘Lana’ and ‘Khabbal’ are special diet for camels. Other animals live on anything available in the desert. The herd owner and his team mostly live on milk for diet. They do carry some flour and spices for a change as and when desired, there is third eating material which I observed being taken by a herd owner of about sixty years of age. It was a collection of seasonal locust, dried and packed in bags. This special material rich in protein is also a source of sound good health for the whole team of persons responsible for looking after animals. The way of eating this special material is very simple. Simply taking it from the container bag and chewing and devouring it straight away followed by intake of water

People of Tharparkar very much love their desert. They never even think of going out of the area. Most of them do not know abut the green plains and hills of Sindh and Punjab with canals and channels of sweet water. If at all they are informed about the beauty and availability of all that, they neither get stunned nor show any degree of interest in that. They deeply love their desert, their animals and their very mode of living. They do not have any interest in agriculture lands, canals, railways, roads, aeroplans etc. I informed a herd owner about villages and cities of other part of Sindh and asked him ‘why you don’t try to settle down somewhere there’. To collect a few words that could be understood by me, he held five fingers of his hand together in the upward direction and after a few silent moments, replied, “Sahib! Akk jo kero amb ma nahen reh sakt hai: (Sir, insect born and surviving in bitter bush, cannot survive on mango tree).

International border is in no way any obstruction for them. It is usual with them to cross and re-cross the border anytime and any number of times they like. Their cigarettes, tea, sugar and other victuals are brought from the Indian side nearest shops. Their marriages are sometimes arranged on the Indian side. They are absolutely peaceful and harmless Pakistanis. Up to our r stay there, we never heard of any activity against the interest of the state. They neither steal nor usurp. Nothing criminal had been heard about them.

My section for demarcation of International Boundary was extreme North and extreme difficult. Southern sections were quite populated and approachable by vehicle. Our colleagues of southern sections enjoyed vegetables and watermelons daily. Above all they enjoyed meat almost daily. Mr. Mansoor Ahsan especially enjoyed meat free of cost twice daily. He had a sweet water well in his sector which was dwelled by countless grey pigeons. Early in the morning when the pigeons were still in, he used to cover the top of well by a cloth with the help of his team members. Then he used to down a piece of wood into the well disturbing the pigeons to fly out. Tactfully the men will slightly raise the cloth catching quite a number of birds. When the catch was consumed by the team, the operation was repeated. Too much of everything is bad. Mr. Mansoor suffered from bleedy piles and for rest of the period he did not disturbed the birds anymore.

During a movement on duty we had been camping at right bank of Nara canal, an ancient branch of Indus River. Weather was a bit hot. We did not have any assignment to do as the field programs were under planning. During a hot noon I suggested to Mr. Manssor for having a bathing in cold water of Nara canal. He readily agreed and carrying a strong long rope, we reached the active bank of the canal. Estimated depth of water was 18 feet. I proposed that I should be the first to start jumping and bathing. In view of the depth of water, Mr. Mansoor tied the rope tightly around my waist as precaution against any mishap. I enjoyed three jumps up to the maximum depth. Then came the turn of Mr. Mansoor, I tied the rope around his waist and he freely jumped into the water. After coming to the bank, he was about to jump second time when we were alerted by a loud shouting of a local man who was running towards us at full speed. Astonished we waited for moments to let him reach us. On reaching us what he told us was horrible. He said “Although the whole of Nara contains killer alligators, but this particular reach is well known for abundance of these creatures. So many people crossing Nara canal have been devoured by these creatures. So many dead bodies of sinking boats have never been found inspite of rigorous search. I am very astonished to see you alive after jumping so many times. You must have been vanished at the very first jump into the water. It is an extra ordinary miracle that you both are alive”. We both deeply felt that it is God’s special power that we are still alive. We thanked God.

Nara canal or Nara river otherwise looks extremely charming running through sandy desert. Desert sand takes away sizeable volume of water out of its flow, still its flow is perennial. Its right bank was motor able along which journey will always remain a pleasure.———– To be continued…..

Source: Part from a book in process.
Copyright: Reserved

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Professional Journeys’ Narrative – 5

Decoits used to play hide and seek with Rangers looting the people of villages. The phenomenon was ages old so much so that people of Rajputana and Thar were accustomed to it. Resistance was almost nil. It was on the pity of decoits to leave or take away the belongings of villagers. One member of one of our teams also suffered at the hands of a decoit absolutely for nothing. While returning back to camp after day’s work, he requested the team leader to spare him for a while because he wanted to collect some dry bushes for the cooking. As he did not show up even after a while after dark the team members smelled some trouble and a group started in search of the companion. Lanterns in hands they approximately reached the spot where they had left him alone. They kept moving ahead shouting at the top of their voice, turn by turn. There was no response. When they reached the foot of a high sand dune, their ears caught a very faint murmur in response to their shouting. They started climbing the sand dune, at the top of which they saw a pack of something motionless. When they approached the pack they heard murmuring more clearly. Here was their companion. Hands and legs tied pointing in the upward direction with his back in a small sand pit. Considerably shocked he was not in a position to answer questions. He did need a little care with a warm cup to tea to explain the mishap. After getting his due, he started as follows “I had collected a sizeable quantity of dry bushes well before sunset. These got too heavy to be lifted over to head for carrying to the camp. Fortunately a camel rider appeared in the mean time. Being a government servant, I ordered him to transport the bundle to my camp by his camel. Before coming down from the camel back, he spoke very polite and courteous. On touching the ground he approached me and gave me a thundering slap with full force. I estimated that I was almost a sparrow in comparison with his physical strength. That was not the end because a series of slaps and punches followed. Exhausted I came to the ground after which he tied my arms with my legs and placed me in the small sand pit. He was a decoit and he did all that in return for the insult that I inflicted on him. I behaved like a pitiable fool. I shall be careful in future”. The ranger accompanying the group confirmed that he was decoit.

Tharparkar adjoins west of Rajputana (now Rajasthan), the Great Indian Desert. Jeselmer, Bekaner and Jodhpur are prominent cities of the area. People of this area have a very attractive culture and they are proud of their culture. Their body complexion is mostly light black but their features are highly appealing. Men wear shirt and Dhoti with Turban on head. Boys at seven or eight start using turban. They are highly cultured and respectful. I shall never forget an eight years old Hindu boy who according to their custom accompanied me a short distance to see me off in complete neat dress with turban on head, a cloth sheet on shoulders and small golden earrings in both ears, he was an impressive model of his culture. His way of talking and listening was gracious. On reaching my camel he joined both of his hands towards me as a gesture of farewell and very calmly returned to his home.

Women generally wear red colored dress from head to ankles. Females’ beauty in the desert is God’s special gift. Without any type of make up and dieting, they are embodiment of perfect fitness in every respect. There are no face creams, no fruits and vegetables to eat and no skin care bathing soaps, still the general health is perfect. It invites the scientists to explore and record the health secrets.

According to my knowledge collected from the locals of various villages. Hindu Thakurs allow marriage of their daughters with Muslim young men. Muslim religious leader does his own way of binding the couple in marriage and Hindu religious leader manages couple’s walk around the fire. I was told that Hindu Thakur wives prove to be the most loyal, helping and cooperating in facing the rigors of life. I was told that these wives not only rear the children but also respect them as Muslim individuals. ———– To be continued…..

Source: Part from a book in process.
Copyright: Reserved

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Professional Journeys’ Narrative – 4

Venomous snakes are of varied sizes in the area, but I have not seen any snake of dia. more than 1.75 inch or 4.3 cm. Desert where human beings spend more energy in walking, there is no problem for the snakes running fast here and there. There is another type of snakes in the area about which I have never heard in any other area that I have visited. The species called PEEVAN, does not bite and is rarely seen during sun light. If at all you come across a Peevan during the day, you can pick it up and carry it any where, if you like. This creature harmless during the day is very deadly at night for the sleeping men, women and children. Its attacking and killing function is strange for the people of non-desert areas. For his prey in deep sleep over bed, it supports itself on its tail and adjusts its mouth millimeters close to the victim. When the man inhales air down to his lungs, Peevan releases its poisonous fumes into his nose or mouth. In minutes the victim surrenders life and only in the morning it gets known that the person is dead. The attacking creature withdraws immediately after the person’s inhaling process stops. Locals told us that the government of Sindh pays cash reward for every living or dead Peevan handed over to special centers. The only way of security against the Peevan attack at night is some type of light at the sleeping place. In our tents we used to sleep in the light of Lantern throughout the night. So prickly was the danger that there used to be spontaneous breaks in sleep during which we used to check the interior of the tent and see that lantern oil was enough till dawn. Over and above all precautions, there used to be persons on night duty who had instructions to check the inside of very tent to assure that the lantern was burning and that there was no Peevan inside. This was to save lives as well as to maintain the continuity of the international working, strictly according to the schedule. Locals advice to keep onions inside the tent was also observed. Locals had experience that the Peevan avoids the smell of onions.

The desert embowers profuse number of large size black scorpions. They look horrible. If you are quite comfortable seated on a piece of carpet, you can not imagine what is happening beneath the carpet. Following accident explains a little. One of my team members was extremely punctual in offering Muslim prayers at prescribed times. He was washing his face and hands to get prepared for pre-sunset prayer on a day. He usually prayed inside the tent where two carpets cover the sand. On the particular day, he managed to spread a piece of carpet outside his tent. Everybody saw that this piece of carpet was over used and had so many small holes in it. He started praying with deep concentration as was his usual way. As we saw him putting his knees on the carpet, he forgot his prayer, abruptly ran away from the carpet and started running to and fro on the sand. He was emitting pitiable sounds in pain with a hand on his left knee. The loudness of his painful voices became louder with passing of every moment. Immediately nobody understood what happened. Some thought his knee must have been pricked by some bush-thorn. Some thought his knee got dislocated. Everybody however, immediately approached him for help and asked him the reason of his pain. Between sobs of pain he simply said “Scorpion, scorpion”. Everybody understood the problem. Two team members ran toward the rangers’ port for medicine. Others started soothing him by cleaning the attacked spot on the knee. After a while we thought of inspecting the piece of carpet. When a member pulled up a corner of the carpet his face showed signs of horror. Underneath the piece dozens of scorpions had gathered. All of us joined to kill them. The affected person told us that the pain and burning was extreme. He kept crying for hours. A ranger 6.5 feet tall and exceptionally heavy weight, moved to a corner tent to laugh comfortably. After some tine he gave a reason for his uncontrollable laugh. He said “So many times our rangers and local men have been attacked by the scorpions, but I have never seen them crying like that. It is simply very very funny for me. The name of this ranger man was Ibraheem and he was from Balochistan province. Ibraheem was the source of courage and fun for us during our entire stay in desert. When he used to laugh, his whole body seemed to be dancing which made everybody laugh without reason. On the other hand the scorpion affected member was known for his experience in creating rifts between two persons or groups. Outwardly he seemed to be the most through gentleman. Inwardly he was always very very busy in managing various kinds of disasters, still nobody could ever point a finger toward his nobility. The scorpion, perhaps, got angry with his plots. On the other hand, with positive use of his intelligence he could gain mines.

There is another item of quaint information about this area. During December and January, night temperature in deserts falls considerably as compared to the other areas. I did know this phenomenon already. So for camping I selected foot of high sand hill, considering that this low place will keep us warm. The ranger, on duty with us, opposed this idea. He said top of sand hill is much warmer at night as compared to its foot. We laughed at him. It was very foolish of us all. We did camp at the foot of sand hill and the following morning everybody complained that the cold was unbearable. Nobody still believed the ranger. Next night when we were feeling very cold in tents, the ranger man entered my tent at about 9 PM and informed me that he wanted to show me something if I agreed t follow him. I agreed and followed him towards the top of the sand hill. It was unbelievable. The top of the hill was very very warm and cozy. ———– To be continued…..

Source: Part from a book in process.
Copyright: Reserved

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Professional Journeys’ Narrative – 3

Camel travels his own way. A regular rider gets habitual with multi-directional movements during journey through expanse of vast desert. For me the case was different. I managed to set three cotton cushions under my sitting position on the camel back. This precaution did not help. Formation of sores started on third day by the evening of which these turned over to wounds. It was not possible to sleep comfortably at night. Journey had to be continued. Flat sand movements of the rider’s body differ from those experienced during climbing a sand hill. Then these movements were altogether changed during descending the sand hill. Then flat, up-hill and down-hill movements were altogether changed during ride through loose sand when the camel’s legs got into the sand up to knees. So the taste of pain of sores had quite a lot of variety. For following days it was not possible to get into satisfactory sleep at night. Walking on foot also did not help much. Since the night stay sites were predefined by the area expert camel-men, the journey had to be continued without break. There was no lunch break even. Lunch had to be taken during active traveling. Keep riding, keep eating. Keep walking, keep chewing. It was a miracle that all team members remained perfectly healthy during the journey. Verily we had no time to get sick.

There are two kinds of camels in this area. Load-carrier camels are called ‘Laddu’ and fast running camels are called ‘Mahra’. ‘Mahra’ camel can cover 20 miles an hour in desert consisting of high sand hills and stretches of loose sand. ‘Mahra’ camels are always slim and smart. One can easily judge that they are built for running. If ever you made a mistake of whipping a ‘Laddu’ camel for running, your whole skeleton will be shaken from joint to joint within a few hundred feet only. When you are riding a running ‘Mahra’ camel, you have comparatively least body movements. ‘Mahra’ camel naturally cares for his rider and with specific movements of his whole neck and head, dissolves most of the jerks. ‘Laddu’ camel does not care for the number of jerks to his rider.

On seventh day, November 30, 1960, we reached our destination from where we had to start our professional assignment. It was the northernmost sector amongst all the teams. Name of the place is Sanahu Tar. Here I had to meet my Indian counterpart for deciding the start of work. My counterpart was Mr. Sidh Gopal having a Master’s Degree in Mathematics. He was a medium height handsome Youngman who later turned out to be a jolly nice fellow. He was a very good company.

There was a Rangers’ Post on top of a sand hill of Sanahu Tar. Post Incharge Mr. Ghulam Muhammad was a leaned person. He had adequate knowledge of defense, politics and history. He had trained a bitch for chasing and catching deer. They called her ‘Neelo’. Apparently the bitch looked very ordinary but she had amazing speed for chasing the deer. Her performance was unbelievable. Here highest record of catching deer was four during a single fore noon. Very early in the morning she will reach the bed of her master and pull him by his shirt repeatedly until he was on his feet to start for hunting. In case a deer escaped her chase, she will go on hunger strike for the rest of the day. In addition she will choose some remote corner of the post and with her head inside her legs, she will remain motionless to display her shame and remorse. Then at sunset a team of two or three attendants will approach her, pat her and softly press her legs for no less then half an hour, after which she will agree to eat something.

Sanahu Tar Post Incharge had maintained a library containing quite a variety of books on many subjects. I studied some books out of his library and gained a lot of extra knowledge. This helped me in facing the rigours of the desert. Our drinking water was carried from a distance of 20 to 40 miles and the camel-men were doing this duty with perfect responsibility. Rations were managed from 80 miles distance from the nearest possible market, only once every month. On arrival of the ration load we enjoyed vegetable only for 3 to 4 days. For rest of the whole month we lived on grams and potatoes. This was gradually causing considerable loss of body weight.

After solving all the technical and administrative difficulties by the headquarters in both the countries, actual work was started during second week of December 1960. Camp to work site was 5 to 7 miles distance that had to be covered daily on foot. As the work continued, the middle of the day started becoming hot with the passing of every date. It became hotter by the end of January. The weather became suitable for the desert snakes exactly matching the color of the sand. By chance you could step over a snake to prompt its attack. ———– To be continued…

Source: Part from a book in process.
Copyright: Reserved

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Professional Journeys’ Narrative – 2

Every huts’ settlement or village has its own well of bitter water for the survival of camels, goats, sheep etc. These animals have physically adjusted themselves to this kind of water. In summer this water is very cold and the animals drink it greedily. Such wells are 150 to 200 feet deep. Long rope and sizably large bucket is made up of animal skin. One end of the rope is firmly attached to the bucket whereas the other end is adjusted to the hump of a trained camel. Owner of every flock uses his own Camel to draw water from the well as manually it is not possible to undergo such hard job continuously for hours. Flock after flock take their turn on water and the process continues almost day and night. On our track we did not come across a village having two wells. As soon as the bucket touches the water surface below the well, it is filled manually and submerged inside the water in order to fill it completely up to its full capacity. The person on duty voices a sound which only the Camel understands. The Camel starts moving on the fixed track. As soon as the bucket is about a foot above the well’s wall, a second different special sound is voiced by which the Camel stops. The heavy bucket is pulled over to the well’s wall and poured into the small pond nearby, around which the animals gather for quenching their thirst. The empty bucket is lowered into the well and the Camel starts moving towards the well. The process continues till whole flock drinks to its fill.

A man’s stomach gets disturbed with single glass of bitter water. Animals take it regularly without any complaint or trouble. Local people told us that the Camels’ milk also gets slightly saltish due to the bitter water. Inspite of that I had been stunned by the statement of a resident of Nagar Parker who said “I don’t understand why you do not drink such sweet water calling it bitter”.

In local language well is called ‘Tar’ and flat sand fields are called ‘Tal’, whereas sand hills are called ‘Bhit’. In Tals we usually encountered groups of dears and sometimes rabbits jumping from bush to bush. Dears gave every indication of getting surprised to see us. They will stand still to see us then abruptly start jumping at full speed towards some hiding spot. At many locations we also saw partridge.

Scenes of sunset and moon light at night have been especially blessed for the sandy deserts. Green fields and hilly areas are absolutely unfamiliar with such kind of attractive beauty. A person from irrigated areas feels himself to be inside another world on the globe. The tremendous calm is occasionally broken by the sounds of bells of some grazing animals far away. It is perhaps due to this peace filled calm and pure simplest food that people in the area very rarely get sick. Minor ailments are successfully treated by intake of specially processed garlic, onion, egg, spices or some natural bushes. God Almighty helps these people by miracles, otherwise there is no medical aid available near and far. ———– To be continued…..

Source: Part from a book in process.
Copyright: Reserved

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Professional Journeys’ Narrative – 1

During November 1960, we reached Khokhra Par on Pak-India Border. We had to start our journey by Camels, for 80 miles distance towards North. It was seven days journey in all. On an evening we were informed that Camels had been managed and that we had to start our journey the very next day. Following guiding instructions were imparted:-

“Continue journey from morning to evening. Night stay should be at a location where water is available. There is no perfect track for your destination, only the Camel-men will fix the direction through flat sand and sand hills. You have to complete whole work by the end of March, 1961. Instructions for vigilance against snakes have already been imparted and first-aid kit for snake bites has been issued. Historical danger of decoits in the area exists for which you will be accompanied by armed Rangers. Camels’ drinking water is available in the area. Sources of Human drinking water are not less than 40 miles away from your planned camping sites. The Camel-men will manage the shuttles of Camels for supply of water. Stocks of monthly rations shall also be managed by Camel-men only once a month, as these are available at a distance of at least 80 miles. Your salary shall reach you every month in cash, so the Postal Money Orders shall be managed with the ration purchasing team. Camels’ feed is available in the area in the form of dry and green bushes. Be kind to the huts’ residents in the area. Help each other for rations and eatable, etc. etc.”

Camels were loaded with tents, water containers, rations and instruments. So the journey started. I intended to walk my way all along but the team members insisted that I ride a Camel. A row of 14 Camels and about 20 team members looked very impressive and beautiful. Most of the team members were walking on foot. Thank God, they were all healthy and well built. We had our ration for a month and drinking water for 7 days only. Every evening the Camels were set free into the area for grazing and every morning they were collected from the area and loaded for starting the day’s journey. Each day’s camping sites were near a well of bitter salty water which the Camels did not refuse to drink.

There were sand fields and hills all around our passage. These had an exceptional beauty which cannot be seen in irrigated areas and green hills. It is a very beautiful landscape not seen and visited by vast majority of human beings. Shape of the landscape changes after every 500 yards. Colors of sand keep changing from place to place. There are scattered bushes everywhere but no tree. Very rarely if there is a tree, it is carefully guarded for its shade for human beings and animals. Such miracle trees have a well nearby. A scientific research is needed for discovery of its growth and survival in such a harsh area.

Along the route of our journey, we saw small settlements of huts made from dry branches of bushes. Hindus’ villages were disciplined and neat, whereas Muslim villages were in the shape of scattered huts. Hindus’ villages have a disciplined system of proper living. Every such village had its chief whom every individual sincerely obeyed. He is called ‘Mukhia’. At every Hindu village, we were respectfully greeted and offered milk or curd. These Hindus belong to Thakar Rajput tribe. They have numerous Sheep, Goats, Cows and Camels. ———– To be continued…..

Source: Part from a book in process.
Copyright: Reserved

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